LAS VEGAS -- "Less is more" proved the formula for success at this February's MAGIC, as spectacle took a backseat to subdued fashion.

The apparel shown at the Las Vegas Convention Center was more low-key than in the previous few years but still revealed major trends across men's, women's and children's wear for fall 2005.

There were a number of exceptionally strong design themes on the floor, but unlike the flash of the past few shows, there was a newfound focus on basic, salable product.

While celebrity brands still had a presence--most notably a new women's line from Jessica Simpson--the large number of stars trying to produce the next Scan Jean have created a glut, targeting already oversaturated department and specialty stores. The urban, skate and streetwear areas were also relatively quiet. Instead, the offering for fall 2005 builds on uptrending silhouettes and fabrications from the last back-to-school season.

Within each category, there was a standout trend. For instance, in men's dress and casual wear, the retailers walking the floor could not stop talking about the strong wovens cycle in tops.

"Wovens are exceptionally strong; this may be the strongest men's woven tops cycle in the past 10 or 15 years," said Jim Cutright, a buyer for Bealls Outlet.

While there is a broad range of styles that are expected to sell well in both men's and young men's apparel, there was one pattern than stood out above all--plaid. All types of plaids, from classic patterns to '80s windowpane checks, were out in force, expected to take market share from stripes across the marketplace.

"While stripes still have their place in the market, the consumer is ready for plaid patterns, which will take visual interest to the next level," said Dave Matsudaira, a Gottschalks buyer.

Even traditionally bottoms-driven companies are going into tops. Just in time to meet demand for wovens, VF Jeanswear is producing new tops for fall, to pair with its women's Riders and men's Wrangler jeans.

"The timing is right to introduce Riders and Wrangler tops; we are getting a strong retailer reaction to overall lifestyle merchandising for fall 2005," said Angelo LaGrega, president of VF Jeanswear's mass-market division.

Technology also continues to be a driver in men's wear, so much so that companies are entering in non-traditional categories.

"We are introducing performance underwear with wicking properties at the waistband ... and [it's] getting a tremendous reaction at the show," said Jim Noble, senior vp at Dickies.

While wovens are on top in men's for fall, jeans are key in young men's bottoms.

"Denim is an overwhelming trend in young men's, especially in destructed fabrics.... If you are in young men's and denim is not your primary focus for fall, you have definitely got a problem," said Claudia Heller, a buyer at Kohl's.

This worn look is expected to rule denim departments in women's and children's as well this fall, with cleaned up silhouettes taking over into spring 2006. Denim jeans, skirts and jackets remained central to the merchandise offering in juniors and misses. Women's tops are still driven by knits into next fall, with brands like C&C California and American Apparel leading the way.

In both women's and men's wear, licensed apparel is still a major trend. Warner Bros. created some buzz with its expanding array of fashion-driven merchandise, including items based on the upcoming "Batman Begins." Disney also made waves with an innovative booth featuring a perpetual runway show of mannequins on a conveyor belt, featuring different fashions each day of the show.

"We had an offer to buy our booth first thing at the show, but there is definitely ... strong interest from buyers at all levels of the market for licensed apparel," said Andrew Georgiou, director, retail marketing, North American softlines at Disney Consumer Products.

Licensed apparel from Sesame Workshop and Nickelodeon remain strong in children's, and Hanes is gearing up to be the exclusive purveyor of Marvel licensed underwear. In general, girls' and boys' fashions continue to steer toward classic looks rather than miniaturized versions of juniors' and young men's merchandise. For example, Lollytogs-owned Healthtex is focused on traditional tops and bottoms silhouettes with an emphasis on cute appliques and patterns.

The merchandise on exhibit at the show pointed toward one conclusion: fall 2005 is about getting back to basics. After a few tough years when apparel makers had to produce fashion that screamed for attention, vendors have found that a whisper of design interest is going a long way toward attracting buyers.